Budget

Thai:

• Anusarn Market, Chang Khlan Road (same side of road as "Galare Food Centre" but much further up beyond Loi Kroh crossroad towards Sri Dornchai) is a busy outdoor night market with lots of little Thai restaurants and food vendors. Great atmosphere and cheap.

• Galare Food Centre, Chang Khlan Road (opposite the Night Bazaar Building), has a large open-air food court, featuring free Thai classical dance performances nightly. All food is paid for with coupons; most mains 20-50 baht.

• Kuaytiaw Reua Koliang, Moon Muang Road (near Ratchamankha Road; no English sign) serves authentic kuaytiow reua (literally "boat noodles", rice noodles in dark broth with beef). It's good stuff anyway at 25 baht a pop.

• Re-Feel Café, 48/4-5 Rachavithi Road offers great (cheap) Thai food, good atmosphere, friendly staff and free billiards.

Western:

• Fish'N'chips Shop, Ratchawitee Road +66 53-418210. Fresh, crispy. The name says it all.

• Mike's Hamburger Stand, on the corner of Chaiyapoom Road and Chang Moi Road (along the east side of the moat) and on Nimmanhaemin Road (across from Soi 11) are brightly-lit, "old-school" joints - just stools and a counter in an open shop. Real good hamburgers for 60 baht, excellent onion rings. If you're tired of rice and noodles this is nice place to stop for lunch while walking around town, and an even better place to fill your stomach on the way home from the bars. Bacon, or ham and egg sandwiches on the breakfast menu. Open 09:00-15:00.

• Woody's Fine Fast Food, 56 Chaiyapoom Road. Half-way between Thapae Gate and Spicy Pub, next to the 7/11. Serves Kebabs (Gyros), Hamburgers, Hot Dogs, Falafel, Chips (Fries), Beer, Whisky, Wine and Soft Drinks. Tasty food, quality ingredients, cheap prices. Hygenic, friendly and attractive small diner and bar. Stays open after most other bars and restaurant have closed. Open 5pm to late.

[edit] Mid-range

On the east bank of the Ping River north of Nawarat Bridge is a cluster of restaurants that double up as nightlife spots - see the listings under Drink

Thai:

• Huen Phen, 112 Ratchamankha Road, specialises in Northern Thai food, and is popular with Thais and foreigners alike. Lunch in the air-conditioned hall is decent enough, but dinner in the profusely decorated old house in the back is little short of magical. Best of all is the price: a bowl of khanom jiin naam ngiaw (Shan-style pork rib noodles), a plate of som tum (green papaya salad) and some sticky rice will still leave you change from 50 baht! Open daily 08:00-15:00 & 17:00-22:00.

• Just Kao Soy - a reasonably priced restaurant with excellent kao soy and vegetarian curry broth.

Western:

• Amazing Sandwich, 20/2 Huay Kaew Road (north-west corner of the moat, opposite the Chiang Mai Orchid Hotel; plus two other locations) [34] - choose from a million and one items on their list and they'll build a sandwich for you your way. The also serve breakfasts and have bagels. Open daily 08:00-20:00 (Sunday close 16:00).

• Chiang Mai Kebab, 69/4 Kotchasarn Road +66-71881832 - chicken, beef kebab, salad, Pita bread, falafel, samosa, vegetarian. 17:00-midnight.

• El Toro Restaurant & Pub, 5/2 Loi Kroh Road. New Mexico style Mexican food at its finest prepared by experienced cook. Free food 17:00-19:00 every Friday.

• O'Malley's Irish Restaurant, Anusarn Market, 149-14/15 Changklan Road +66 53-271921 - international cuisine and Guinness on tap.

• The Dukes +66 53-249231 is located 50 meters north of the Tourism Authority of Thailand office at 49/4-5 Chiang Mai - Lumpoon Road south of the Narawat bridge on the east side of the Ping River. Excellent home cooking style dishes and desserts. Full Bar with local and imported beers and wines. Great family atmosphere, no loud music or entertainment just good food.

• The Meeting Restaurant & Café, 6/1 Soi 1, Kotchasarn Road. Have a talk with the friendly managers. Closed Sundays.

Kosher:

• Kosher Restaurant, 89/15 Changklan Road (100 m from Empress hotel).

Vegetarian:

• Khun Churn, 120/2 Nimmanhemin Road, Soi 7 +66 53-224124 - Thai vegetarian. Open 09:30-14:30 & 17:30-22:00, closed the 16th of every month.

[edit] Splurge

Thai:

When you come to Chiang Mai you should try a traditional Khantoke dinner and show. This is not just for tourists as the Northern Thai people have been enjoying the Khantoke dinner for centuries. There are also many garden restaurants where you can enjoy an excellent Thai meal in a beautiful setting.

• Baan Rom Mai Garden Restaurant, Changklan Plaza, 191/12 Changklan Road +66 53-820031 /2. Open daily 10:00-midnight.

• Galae Garden Restaurant, at the end of Suthep Road +66 53-278655 / +66 53-811041 - Doi Suthep foothill location at edge of a sparkling reservoir. Thai & Northern Thai food and grilled specialties in delightful outdoors.

• Khum Khantoke, in Chiang Mai Business Park +66 53-304121 - be entertained while you dine on traditional North Thailand Cuisine. Reservations are a good idea to get a good seat. Family style all you can eat 350 baht. Nightly 19:00-22:00.

• Le Grand Lanna Garden Restaurant, 51/3 Sankampaeng Road +66 53-262569 is a must see for its architectural teak splendor. Open daily.

• Old Chiang Mai Culture Center 185/3 Wualai Road +66 53-275097 - the first commercial Khantoke Dinner in Chiang Mai more than 30 years ago. They have the best Northern Thai food of any of the Kantoke establishments however the seating, show and music are not as good as at Khum Khantoke. Nightly 19:00-21:30.

• Palaad Tawanron Garden Restaurant, on a reservoir. Thai and English food. Wat Fai Hin behind CHiang Mai University, Suthep Road +66 53-216576 / +66 53-216039.

• Saenkham Terrace Garden Restaurant, Clubhouse Ban Naifan 2, 199/163 T. Maehea +66 53-838990 - open daily 11:00-22:00.

Western:

• Alois Bavarian Restaurant, Soi 8, Phrapoklao Road +66 53-278515 - authentic Bavarian specialties - open Tue-Sun, 11:30-23:00.

• Fillmore East Bar & Grill, Charernrasd Road +66 53-262416 - seating on two dining terraces facing Mae Ping river. Delicious USDA Beef, lamb, veal, chops, burgers. Excellent homemade deserts such as pecan, pumpkin and apple pie with large choice of toppings. The bar is separate from the riverside dining area so you can enjoy a romantic dinner in peace.

• Piccola Roma Palace Italian Restaurant, at corner of Charoenprathet Road & Sri Donchai Road near Chiang Mai Plaza Hotel +66 53-820297 / +66 53-271256 - open lunch & dinner. An unforgettable dining experience amid beautiful surroundings. Serving residents over 15 years.

• The House, 199 Moonmuang Road +66 53-419011 - old 1930's colonial style house in town center. Pacific rim & fusion food. Open 18:00.

• The Mango Tree Café, 8/2-3 Loi Kroh Road +66 53-208292 - open 07:00-22:30. Top quality Thai & Western cuisine. Sunday Roast Lamb.

Vegetarian:

• Whole Earth, 88 Sridonchai Road +66 53-282463 - open 11:00-21:00.